![_Dandy Warhols at Emo's East [Show Preview]](http://austinist.com/assets_c/2012/05/DandyWarhols-thumb-250x250-715813.jpg)
EAST Interview: Talking Shop with Kelly Hankamer of Twinkle Tooth Designs
Saturday, November 20 - Sunday, November 21
Dog House Studios (618 Tillery St)
Free, Studios open from 11 am - 6 pm
[info] | [more info]
Some jewelry is worn once and relegated to be forgotten in the bottom of a treasure chest, but this is not the case for Kelly Hankamer's Twinkle Tooth Designs. Equal parts vintage inspired and uber-modern, Hankamer uses original molds and high-quality materials to create jewelry that pushes beyond basic hook-and-eye, pendant necklaces. In fact, we like to think of it as wearable art. E.A.S.T. affords you a rare opportunity to get inside not only the trained jewelry maker's studio, but also inside her head as she showcases works-in-progress, original design blue prints and completed pieces at her workplace inside Doghouse Studios.
What is your design/art background?
I am an art school dropout. I was a former student at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and fell in love with life in the city at the same time that I was becoming disillusioned with art school. I've always made art, however, ever since I can remember. I was constantly drawing and would often make clay jewelry as a kid that my mom would beseechingly wear.
During high school, in addition to my art classes and competitions, I worked for a fused glass artist named Kathleen Ash. She taught me a lot about the craft as well as how to make a living as a female artist. She has constantly been an inspiration to me and we've maintained a good relationship, both friendly and work-related over the 11 years or so since I first worked in her studio.
I previously did a lot of drawing and printmaking. My first introduction to jewelry was at SAIC when I took a metalsmithing class and fell in love with the medium. About 4 years ago, I started taking classes at Austin Community College and it's been ah-mazing. The instructors are all Master Bench Jewelers and really know their stuff. I couldn't ask for better instruction.
How long have you been working on Twinkle Tooth Designs?
Twinkle Tooth Designs was launched in September of this year. I had a previous jewelry business with a friend and we decided to wrap things up due to some creative differences and the fact that she was moving four hours away. I'm really glad to have gone solo and am enjoying the ability to do things exactly as I please.
What can E.A.S.T.'ers expect to see on your studio tour?
I'm working on some cast pieces that I'm really excited about. Currently, I've been casting a lot of plastic toys (which make really fun pieces) and human teeth. I also really got into wax carving over the past year or so and am making some wild bronze and silver rings and bracelets from those carvings. I also am working on a rad crystal and silver necklace, and have some beautiful raw stones that I'm looking forward to using. Not everything will be completed by the tour, but I am displaying my works-in-progress as well as components of the jewelry making process in order to give viewers a better idea of how everything works.
Where do your draw your ideas and inspiration?
My ideas come from all over the place. I get inspired by certain bands, other designers, and even just weird stuff I find at thrift stores and garage sales. I'm a big fan of female artists like Barbara Kruger and Cindy Sherman as well as male artists like Duchamp, Sol LeWitt, Chuck Close, and Basquiat, to name a few. I totally geek out in art museums, especially in the modern art section. I'm very fascinated with design and new mediums and like to experiment with them in my own work. I'm often drawn to geometric designs and vibrant color. As a jeweler, I feel that I have to be conscious of what is in fashion but still be true to myself and ultimately make things that I would like to wear (I learned that from a documentary on Betsey Johnson).
Often, my work straddles the lines between high art, pop art, fashion, costume jewelry, and traditional jewelry. I am classically trained but love to push the boundaries of what is expected of a traditional jeweler. I love vintage jewelry and the work that goes into all the tiny details and hope to create pieces myself that are just as beautiful.
Keep reading this post after the jump to learn about Kelly's favorite materials and for specifics about where to see her work during this weekend's tour.
Do you have any favorite materials you like to work with?
Typically, I use silver. For quite some time it has been a fairly affordable medium and one that has really outstanding results. The cost of precious and semi-precious metals have skyrocketed in the past year and silver is becoming less of an affordable resource, both for me and my customers. I always wish to make jewelry that most people can afford. Recently, I've started casting in bronze and will add gold plating to my repertoire.
While I do set various stones, I also often will use faceted Czech glass buttons from the 1950's, as well as other vintage items. I try to make as much of my work by hand as possible, but sometimes the vintage stuff is to cool to pass up. I guess you can call that "upcycling".
Describe the project you are most proud of making.
Completing the studio was a big deal to me. I totally remodeled the space myself and am really pleased with how it turned out. Additionally, I'm really excited about this bronze and silver ring that I'm currently working on. I carved this crystalline structure from wax for the top and it's looking really awesome! I plan on wearing it this weekend during the tour.
You can catch Kelly's work at Doghouse Studios, which is stop #41b on EAST. She also frequently updates her blog with new pieces, events she's participating in, and more.
