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Food Interview: El Naranjo Presents A Foodways Of Mexico Lecture And Reception Thursday
Thursday, September 9
Mexican American Cultural Center (600 River Street)
FREE; Lecture 6:00-7:00 p.m., reception to follow
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Don't be put off by the billing. You can expect de la Vega to talk in a warm, accessible way about classic dishes created in the convents and palaces of the colonial cities of Mexico, and how these became indispensable to Mexican culture. She'll let you know which aspects of Mexican cuisine managed to survive the turbulence of the Mexican Revolution of 1910. Then, she'll top the evening off with a look at contemporary Mexican cuisine, a cooking demonstration and, of course, free samples.
Austinist asked de la Vega a few questions about this week's lecture, cooking at El Naranjo, and the general appeal of Mexican cuisine:
What's the most important thing Americans need to know about the link between Mexican identity and food?
Nowadays in Mexico, when we eat Mexican food, we forget about our problems, everything is alright; we just enjoy. [At a good food stand], you will see that the poor and the rich mingle without problem.
But that was not the case 30 years ago, where the elite classes of Mexico only ate French -- or any foreign -- cuisine. Back then, we did not realize the beauty of our history and food of our past, own ingredients and dishes. Today we are proud of our Mestizo ancestry, our past, our History. Mexican cuisine has been through many obstacles, and has been neglected for a long time; finally we identify ourselves with it as a whole, as a Nation. It is in the Mexican collective mind.
What makes the Oaxacan region of Mexico -- where you're from -- so unique, cuisine-wise?
The ingredients, the specialty chiles and herbs, and the creativity of the native people that put the ingredients together creating marvelous flavors. It is also a cuisine with a lot of pre-Columbian cooking techniques.
What are pre-Columbian cooking techniques?
Dry roasting, cooking under the ground, steaming, volcanic rock grinding, cooking over ashes, and nixtamalization.
Is a broader range of Mexican cuisine appetizing to Austinites? Is there truly life beyond tacos?
I completely agree that is difficult to beat tacos! Tacos are pieces of heaven wrapped in a delicious white corn tortilla, but there are many more tastes to explore. What we like to cook at our trailer is simply the comfort food that I grew eating and cooking at home: fresh, bold flavors, delicately touched by different chiles.
I have heard for years from famous chefs cooking Mexican food in the U.S. that they have been "translating" the Mexican food to the American palate and audience, as otherwise the people will not understand it. Honestly, I think that the American people, after having been exposed to so many cuisines all over the world [are not in need] of more translation.
You'll be discussing and preparing a few dishes on Thursday. Which are they?
Mole Poblano: The classic dish from the times of the Colony, served with chicken -- the mole contains around 20 ingredients.
Chiles en Nogada: These are poblano chiles stuffed with meat, and fruit picadillo, served room temperature with a delicate walnut sauce,scattered with pomagranate seeds and parsley. This is the iconic dish from the Independence of Mexico.
Third, Ante de Almendras. It's a sponge-like cake soaked with sherry syrup and covered with almond paste. It's a dish from central Mexico from the Colonial era.
What's one detail Austin should know about Mexican culinary history?
Mexican cuisine is fusion food [strongly influenced by] Pre-Columbian, Spanish and Middle Eastern cuisines; with touches of French and Asian. I think it's fascinating to know that some of the ingredients that we consider Mexican are not native [to South America], like cilantro.
We hear you will be opening a restaurant. Can you tell us about that?
The location is the same as El Naranjo: 85 Rainey St. It will be in the house next to the trailer. We hope to open in late January. By then we will move the trailer somewhere else, which is not defined yet - any ideas? We can expand the offerings, have more specials, and a bar with good margaritas and specialty drinks. As we will have a real kitchen, it will be easier to handle.
