Food: Tacodeli opens on North Lamar, Uchiko to follow

Even now, there seems to be some confusion about the why and wherefore of Tacodeli. So, to offer a clarification: Tacodeli is not a hybrid eatery where you can get black beans with a side of pastrami. Tacodeli is, however, an exclusively Tex-Mex breakfast-thru-lunch taco bar with three locations in Austin. The third location quietly opened this month on North Lamar, right across the street from Central Market.

This casual taco joint is an obsession for some, while, for others, it merely ranks as "meh" -- a distribution about right for any taco place worth its salt, because taco preference is so personal. In our view, Tacodeli happens to offer a nice compromise between the traditional and the exotic taco, and critical praise has certainly been heaped on the place. Texas Monthly said Tacodeli offers a number of "tacos you must eat before you die."

Somewhat less morbid reviewers have praised Tacodeli's bison tacos (ground Thuderheart bison seasoned with roasted garlic, tomato, caramelized onion, melted jack cheese and jalapeño), fish tacos (Tilapia with mojo-garlic sauce), the Cowboy (seasoned beef tenderloin with grilled corn, caramelized onions and roasted peppers), and the Adobados (adobo-marinated chicken with cilantro and onions -- their adobo is made from scratch using chipotle, ancho and guajillo peppers). Even more universally recognized is Tacodeli's salsa doña, a creamy jalapeño sauce known affectionately as "crack." So go, go!

While you're there, you might walk a couple doors down and try to peek through the windows of Uchiko (literally "child of Uchi"), the newest venture from beloved Uchi chef Tyson Cole. The restaurant is set to open sometime in June.

Uchiko won't have the exterior quaintness of its mama restaurant, which is located in a converted house. But Uchiko will have an ambiance of its own, and much greater reservation capacity (a/k/a more dining room) than Uchi. Chef Cole describes this as an effort to "hopefully nullify our biggest complaint: the wait." The new restaurant's interior will feature specially crafted grills, a bar (and tiles and flooring and walls) made from rich woods, and a menu a lot like Uchi's, but with a bit more spring in its step. (It goes without saying that Uchiko will feature the same service and cuisine that sushi fans in Austin have come to expect from Cole.)

Austinist will have further news on Uchiko's opening early this summer. In the meantime, you might enjoy browsing Uchiko's blog, which is regularly updated with details about the new restaurant and its menu. You'll also find pictures aplenty of flesh (of the fish variety), assorted dish elements, and a behind-the-scenes competition that has sushi chefs stacking apples in record time.

The new Tacodeli is located at 4200 North Lamar Blvd. It is open on weekdays from 7am-3pm, and weekends from 8am-3pm. The phone number is 512.419.1900. The new Uchiko will be located at the same address.

Contact the author of this article or email tips@austinist.com with further questions, comments or tips.

By beth_lebwohl in Food on May 18, 2010 4:02 PM 0 Comments

Comments [rss]

b

interesting point, Dustin, about expansion.

the only thing i've have at torchy's that was a little weird was the fried avocado taco. but see...somebody else probably loves that. so there you go!

also been wondering if vegetarians encounter more meh b/c they have fewer options when dining out.

Dustin

i've never had anything 'meh' at tacodeli.. always delivers.. which is more than i can say for torchy's.. though expansion always challenges a restaurant's roots..