Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival Interview: Winemaker Marcia Monahan of Stonestreet Wines

Marcia Monahan towers above Sonoma - or at least her vineyards do. The Stonestreet estate (owned by Kendall-Jackson magnate Jess Jackson) sits in the Mayacamas Mountains above the Alexander Valley and Russian River areas, and only about a fifth of the estate is actually plantable due to the soils and elevation levels. Along with "winemaster" Graham Weerts, Ms. Monahan produces Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc from five distinct areas throughout the mountain. Just two months ago, the vineyard and winemakers received some lofty praise from the Emperor of Wine himself, Robert Parker: "Kudos to proprietor Jess Jackson and winemakers Graham Weerts and Marcia Monahan for exploiting this high elevation terroir. This has been a work-in-progress for Jackson, and he has finally hit paydirt." Parker has said that the Stonestreet Cabernets could last as long as three decades, which shows both the complexity and the beauty of what Monahan and Weerts are accomplishing. We recently spoke to Ms. Monahan about everything from mountain soils to Austin sushi.

We're a big fan of Alexander Valley wines, but Stonestreet hovers above the Valley on Alexander Mountain. Can you tell us about what makes the Alexander Mountain terroir and the elevation so special for wine?

Alexander Mountain Estate is simply an exquisite place. The diversity is incredible -- it has 25 soil types! As a result, we have many small blocks on different rootstocks and clones, planted in different soils, with different water needs and sun trajectories, on different ridges and peaks. Our highest block is at 2,400 feet.

Grapes that come from blocks on high elevations like ours have more flavors and concentration. This is because fruit evolves above the fog line — which for Alexander Valley is typically about 900 feet — where it receives more sunlight and the temperature is moderated in a way that develops more flavors, more aromatics, thicker skins and consequently more concentration.

In addition, the soils at Alexander Mountain are volcanic and extremely well drained and meager. Because of this, vines are naturally stressed, producing small berries. This smaller pulp-to-skin ratio results in red wines with intense color, excellent structure and naturally concentrated flavors, and white wines with higher aromatic intensity, attractive minerality and good complexity.

Stonestreet is on a very large amount of land, yet less than 20% of the terrain is actually planted. Have there been some failures with planting parts of the estate over the years? Are you still experimenting with new plantings in various areas?

Yes, it is true that less than 20% of our acreage is actually planted, and it can definitely be challenging to farm on Alexander Mountain. But we are always experimenting. We have some Malbec and some Petite Verdot that is doing really well. We also have plantings of Cabernet Franc and Carmenere.

That said, we do think it is important to leave a good portion of Alexander Mountain untouched. This place is special to us, and it is also special to wildlife. The area is home to deer, hawks, cougars and more. We like to preserve open space.

You work with a number of varietals at Stonestreet - which is your personal favorite within the vineyard, and why?

I have two -- Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Cabernet Sauvignon shows the terroir as it is, while Chardonnay has a tremendous complexity and minerality.

As one of two winemakers, is your job more to help mirror (winemaster) Mr. Weerts' style and philosophy, or do you have some autonomy in what you blend, style, and create?

Graham and I work as a team, especially when it is time for blending. We share our ideas in a very dynamic way, but he has the final word when it is time to cut the cake.

We've just sampled the 2007 Red Point Chardonnay, which is a beautiful wine, and one you'll be sampling here next week - it's somehow a cool climate wine with acidity and minerality and a full-bodied California Chardonnay all at once. We're a little confused by everything we're tasting, to be honest. What flavor profiles do you hope to achieve with the single vineyard Chardonnays?

Our goal is to be loyal to our terroir. We are not trying to achieve any particular profiles. We just try to preserve the flavor and aromas that are already in the grapes and bring them to their maximum potential. Yes, there is a cool climate with cool breezes because we are very close to the Pacific at high altitude, but at the same time the inversion layer makes the cold air sink and the warm air rise up. That is the beauty of having blocks above the fog line where there is more sunlight and warm temperatures that allow the Chardonnay grapes to mature and develop intense flavors.

We're huge fans of Stuhlmuller in the Alexander Valley - what are your favorite wines (besides your own) in the Alexander Valley and Russian River areas?

Both the Robert Young Scion Bordeaux blend and the Aubert Chardonnays.

Finally, have you spent any time here in Austin? Anything you're hoping to see or do besides share your wines with us?

Yes, I have been there once before. I had wonderful sushi during my last visit at Bistro 88. Do you have any suggestions?

Stonestreet Wines will be served at the Stars Across Texas Grand Tasting on Friday, April 16th at The Long Center. Austinist is a media sponsor of the 25th Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival.

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