South African Wines: Great Stories, Fair Prices, Real Character
Thursday, February 25
Twin Liquors (519 E. 7th St.)
6:00pm, $25/person, $40 for two, 21 and up
[info] | [tickets]
The real enjoyment in these wines comes not only from their distinct terroir (which favors France, with some new-world accents), but also through the rich stories that accompany them. For example, Mulderbosch's Faithful Hound blend is named in memory of a dog named Bos who waited and kept watch over the Mulderbosch farm for over three years after his owner passed away. He was buried under his favorite apple tree on the farm, and the wine is made to honor his loyalty to his owner and home. On Thursday, February 25th, Elizabeth Bray from Cape Classics will host a tasting with appetizers at Twin Liquors at Hancock Center that will feature most of the wines reviewed here (along with several others) and the stories that accompany them. Cost is $25/person or $40/pair, and tickets are available in advance.
We recently tasted several South African red blends, and our notes for selections from $8 to $25 are below:
At $8: Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon 2007: While this wine has often been 100% Cabernet in the past, the 2007 adds in some Syrah and Petit Verdot to balance and round the wine. The profile is new world in tone, with smoky oak, plums, and blackberry flavors leading the way. The extended time in oak separates this wine from many others at this price point - usually at $9, you'd be drinking something that had oak chips thrown into a vat rather than actual aging. With moderate tannins, this wine is a good "go-to" for parties or weddings when one needs to purchase by the case. It doesn't beat any of the others here, but it works well for a wine selling for under $10.
At $13: Kanonkop Kadette 2008: This rustic wine from a producer dating back to the 1600's has gotten a lot of great press recently, and it certainly has a strong point of view. The leathery, smoky nose shows evidence of the Pinotage grape in the blend, while the palate has the distinct cherry taste of a Cabernet Franc along with some tobacco and earth. Despite the big flavors, the wine isn't particularly tannic, and has some moderate acidity on the finish. It's an easy pop and pour wine that will be a conversation starter.
At $18: Mulderbosch Faithful Hound 2005: Our favorite wine of the lot was this Bordeaux-style blend. The Faithful Hound's blend changes significantly from year to year, but the dominant profile here seems to come from the Merlot. The wine has a rich, earthy nose with a little blueberry for good measure, and the palate is smooth sailing all the way, with flavors that remind us of our favorite Washington red wines. The main flavor is black fruits, with some light and elegant vanilla oak accents and a great acidic zip to the finish. The tannins are moderate but well integrated, and the wine is ready to drink now - no cellaring required. In sum: classy, drinks like it costs more, and we suspect that just about everyone would love it at a dinner party.
At $25: Rustenberg John X Merriman: This is a serious wine, made for long-term aging and currently brooding just a bit. It needs a significant decant for the flavors to emerge, but is very nice once they do. The flavor profile is slightly tart, with cherries, blackberries, coffee, and tobacco as the primary flavors. The acidity is strong and the tannins are fairly heavy, so pour your glass a few hours before you drink it or hide it away for a year or two.
These wines can be found most easily at The Austin Wine Merchant (512 W. 6th St.), and some are also available at Spec's and other Austin retailers.
Note: These wines were provided as a press sample.
