Wine: Washington's Novelty Hill Arrives In Texas With Some Classy and Powerful Offerings

The "Taste Washington" events held in Austin held during the past two winters here have had a noticeable effect on Austin wine culture. Washington wines are making their way into our stores, restaurants, and wine bars at a rapid clip, which is a good thing for our taste buds. The natural cool climate of Washington lends itself to varietals that California doesn't always do so well like Merlot, Syrah, and Riesling, while also producing some outstanding Chardonnays.

As they approach their tenth anniversary, Novelty Hill Winery now represents one of the best values in Washington wine. Winemaker Mike Januik has been a part of the state's budding vinoculture since the 1980's, and spent some time in the trenches (like so many there) at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Januik produces both the Novelty Hill line and a smaller personal label simply called Januik, both of which offer complex and impressive flavors and terroir at pricing that most wine lovers won't flinch at (most bottles ring up at less than $30).

The Novelty Hill 2005 Columbia Valley Merlot was really a shocker - it ended up as our favorite of the trio. Merlot isn't usually a grape that throws out a lot of personality: by and large, we associate it with being a great food wine that also works wonderfully in Bordeaux blends. But the round, integrated flavors here were complex and appealing. There were dessert-like notes of chocolate, cherry, and caramel at play, with some moderate acidity and a very long finish. Some oak notes of toast and creme brulee made this awfully enjoyable and hedonistic.

Having started with the Merlot, we expected a similar treatment with Novelty Hill's single vineyard 2006 Stillwater Creek Chardonnay offering. We couldn't have been more wrong - this was a light, food-friendly curveball produced in a very French style. The acidic and clean treatment allowed the chardonnay grape and cool climate terroir to shine, and the floral, honeyed nose was exceptionally appealing. The medium-bodied wine was very crisp and lovely, and reminded us most of a Pouilly-Fuisse rather than anything American. It semmed to show best at about 55 degrees.