Austin Bites: Chen's Noodle House

Chen's Noodle House
Location: 8650 Spicewood Springs Rd
Phone: (512) 257-3647
Cost: $ ($=Under $10; $$=$11-30, $$$=$31-60, $$$$=$60+, avg cost per person including 1 drink, tax, and tip.)
Hours: (Uncertain as of this writing, but appears to encompass standard lunch and dinner hours MTuWThFSaSu)
The 411: Asian noodle addicts take note: you'll daydream about the dao xiao mian at Chen's for days. Or at least until you get your next fix.

There are those who like noodles equally alongside all the other manifestations of edible carbohydrates—and then there are those of us who have a potentially unhealthy fixation on the stuff. Especially the Asian kind: chow fun, udon, ramen, soba, somen, lo mein, bun, pho. Add to this taxonomy dao xiao mian (刀削面), "knife-cut noodles".

Originally from the Shanxi province of China, these wheat-flour noodles are notable for their unusual preparation. The noodle dough is shaped into a sort of loaf, which is held on a wooden block as the chef quickly draws a curved blade across the dough, slicing the noodles directly into the pot or pan where they're cooked. The resulting noodles may be thick and chewy with fine ruffled edges, or they may be melt-in-your mouth thin. And that's a large part of the charm.

Chen's Noodle House is one of the few, if not the only restaurant in Austin selling this kind of noodle. The tiny, unprepossessing storefront is tucked away in the corner of the North Austin shopping centre that houses Asia Market (and its excellent ma po tofu) and Sambet's Cajun Deli. (We may not have much in the way of "street food" here, but the array of "strip mall food" makes up for it.) The operation is as simple as it gets—a handful of small tables and a counter past which you can see the tiny kitchen where the owner and two or three others make the food—but no matter; the noodles are excellent.

Start with the beef noodle soup, noodles and thin slices of beef in a light, savory beef broth, dressed with a dash of chili oil. Or if you like lamb, go for the lamb noodle soup, which is strongly and pleasantly redolent of the meat from which it's made. Chili oil is available on request, and a little dash adds an extra dimension to the soup, but this is a matter of personal taste. The combination noodle soup includes tofu, vegetables, and pork along with the noodles; the broth in this soup is made a little thicker with a bit of cornstarch, similar in texture to hot-and-sour soup (only without heat or sourness, which may be added with the chili oil or the bottle of vinegar that sits on the table next to the utensils and the free water and hot tea).

If soup isn't your thing, try the stir-fried knife-cut noodles tossed with pork, tomatoes, and red bell peppers. It's the sort of filling and comforting stir-fry that, being a bit on the oily side, seems to be perfect post-hangover food. The black bean noodles, square-cut long noodles in a salty black bean sauce, are delicious, but they pale somewhat beside the knife-cut noodle dishes. Be sure to sample the green onion pancake, wedges of delicate phyllo-like dough flavored with bits of green onion, and a great complement to the soups.

Chen's Noodle House does exactly what it says on the tin: purveys quality handmade noodles in comforting dishes that will be all the more welcome on the upcoming cold rainy afternoons of fall and winter. Asian noodle enthusiasts should check it out as soon as possible, but be warned: you'll be back. A lot.