Location: 1110 West Lynn [map]
Phone: (512) 472-TACO
Cost: Apps $2-7; Mains $6-10
The 411: A Clarksville standby with counter service in a minimalist/modern setting, Zocalo strives for healthful, interesting twists on casual bistro-mex at a reasonable price.
If you have friends who live in Clarksville, you probably tire easily of all their bragging about the 'hood, with all of its "walking" distance to delicious restaurants, wine bars, drugstores, $3.00 cab rides, blah, blah blah. The rest of Austin can drive/CapMetro/scoot/bike there just fine, gracias.
Part of Clarksville's appeal lies in its unreasonably slick nods to design that dot all down West Lynn. A few nods to decades past remain, but they're gradually being replaced.
So there sits Zocalo, its lime green and white door a stark contrast to its surroundings. (About that door: Zocalo gets busy, and the two swinging doors offer no help for the uninitiated: it's not labeled as the main entrance, and neither of the two has an "in" or "out" sign on it. Those rule-followers amongst us are easily confused, and request further direction. Though, on our second visit, we can't say we cared.) On a pair of recent visits, we enjoyed a beautiful night out on the patio, under some tangly jasmine vines. The restaurant skirts the streetside, allowing for solid people—and people-in-cars—watching at one of the city's most interesting corners.Ordering is done at the counter. Don't be afraid to ask the staff for opinions, even if a huge line behind you is poised to strike.
Bordering on sacrilege, Zocalo's chips and salsa aren't free ("only Chili's does that!" you say? Not true). On the plus side, they make delicious, thick cut chips, and their salsa verde is one of the best in town.
The Guacamole Deconstruido is an appetizer you self-adjust. On the side of the guac is a group of onions, tomatoes, cilantro, and lime (pico de gallo, deconstructed), and you add it as your tastes desire. Fun, but use the onions sparingly—without soaking in pico for a few hours, they carry some bite.
The tacos are a good decision, because they're flexible. We chose the carnitas (pulled pork) on house-made whole wheat with pineapple and salsa verde, and substituted one of the three with chicken. The carnitas, fairly bursting with flavor, won handily and were a nice contrast to the bland pollo. In our opinion, it's wheat, corn, or bust, as the flour tortillas got a little gummy.
We felt a little more adventurous during our second visit, enough so to try the snapper with chipotle slaw and finishing with (satan's) churros. The snapper, covered in cabbage and carrot slaw and sitting on a bed of grilled tomatoes and a thin, crispy tortilla, may be the best entree on the menu. It's a solid dish, with the vinaigrette of the slaw providing a bright flavor that competes with the savory chipotle cream sauce, all of which gets mashed up by the tortilla's crunch.
That was good, but what converted us to fans are the killer churros. If you've spent time in Spain, you probably expect churros to come long, thin, and delicious—like an angelic greasy monster-spaghetti that melts in your mouth, or your coffee/chocolate sauce. The Zocalo version is thicker, larger, and stunningly fried, with a crisp crust embedded with cinnamon-sugar that gives way to a soft, airy interior. We could eat this on its own, so when you throw in dark chocolate and sweet cream sauce, that's it—game over. It's one of the city's best desserts, and at $4.25, you feel like you just robbed it.Table service (drink refills, food delivery, table cleaning) is prompt, extremely pleasant, and attitude-free. Much to our surprise, our churros even came out after the meal, which—let's be honest, folks—is more than we can say for plenty of full-service joints.
Our lasting opinion about the Zocalo experience is that while dishes not slathered in grease can occasionally misfire, give the place at least a couple of tries—you'll find something to please your tastes and mood. And, for heaven's sake, run, right now, and eat some churros.






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