Austin Bites: Imperia

Fanciful alcoholic concoctions establish the tone for the entire dining experience: decadent, rich, cloying. Sample the Asian Pear martini for a boozy beverage imbued with popsicle intensity, a slice of theoretically exotic fruit jammed into the martini glass. The green jade martini is less intense, but the green tea liqueur overwhelms the beverage. Instead of these overwhelmingly saccharine beverages, try the ginger mojito or the Thai tea for more modestly flavored accompaniments.

At first glance, the sushi seems superfluous; if you're going to drop this kind of dough on raw fish, shouldn't you be waiting in line at Uchi instead? Surprisingly, Imperia’s sushi stands out amongst their sweeter and more elaborate entrees. The yellowtail nigiri was rich and succulent, fresh and appealing, streaks of red lining the back of the sliced fish. Salmon and escolar stood out as highlights, the freshness apparent from the moment of presentation. Unfortunately, the house specialty rolls try too hard. Witness "A Hot Mess: Snow Crab, Lobster, and Shrimp Served Over Honey Avocado Roll and Baked." The colliding sea creatures are utterly lost underneath distracting layers of crispy sweetness.

Imperia offers a wide selection of “Dim Sum,” “Traditional Favorites,” and “Small Plates” as competing appetizers. The Imperia Lobster Shrimp Wontons in Crystal Broth sounded like an appetizing spin on the most classic of Chinese soups, but was ultimately flat and unimpressive. The crystal broth was light, with a nice chile kick, but the featured wontons were merely average, the promise of lobster unfulfilled. Wonton fans can find many multiples of a heartier and more authentic soup, for a fraction of the price, if they’re willing to slum it up on 183 with the Din Ho crowd.

Flying off the entrée menu page is the Imperia "Dragon" rib with yuzu frizzled onions. Apparently the earthly creature best suited to represent the spirit of the dragon is a fatty cow. The rib is enormous and requires navigating through layers of molten fats to reach the rich and tender dragon flesh. Be careful, this dish is not for the (literally) faint of heart; you may notice your arteries tightening as a result of consumption. The miso-lacquered sea bass impressed with its excellently seared exterior and delightfully complex flavors. This expertly cooked piece of fish smartly doesn’t rely on sugary notes to hit its mark.

While there are some distinct and interesting flavors to be sampled at Imperia, the offerings are ultimately inconsistent, and at the price, disappointing. The core problem with the menu appears to be a tendency towards the sweet and overly complex; Imperia’s more humble selections are generally more successful and more satisfying. Before taking the family out for that special occasion, you might want to sample the wares at Imperia’s Happy Hour — $5 cocktails, $5 appetizers, and 2-for-1 sushi will satisfy your belly as well as your wallet . Make sure to show up on Monday or Thursday for the freshest possible fish.