Austin Bites: Somnio's Cafe
Location: 1807 South First St. [map]
Phone: (512) 442-2500
Cost: Appetizers $5-7, Entrees $7-10, BYOB
The 411: There's a new restaurant on South 1st St., and odds are good that locals may have passed it by without noticing. In spite of the entire front wall boldly displaying its name, Somnio's Cafe occupies what might be a cursed location: recessed from the street with a windowless facade, nearly invisible in the enormous, crowd-pleasing shadows of Freddie's and Polvo's.
Of course, Somnio's does not exist to compete with local giants. Instead, it is a simple and modest restaurant that serves up what the proprietors proclaim to be "South Austin Cuisine." This bold declaration might pique one's curiosity. After all, what in the name of 78704 is "South Austin Cuisine?" Austin as a whole suffers from a lack of culinary identity; have the proprietors of Somnio's unlocked the secret to the city’s gastronomical destiny?
Thus far, the answer would appear to be "no." Though Somnio's proudly prepares a "vegetarian-friendly, chef-driven menu with fresh and organic ingredients" -- a combination that should please the nearby population -- the dining experience is thoroughly uneven. The waitstaff project a casual and somewhat uncertain air, legitimately friendly but perhaps trying a bit too hard to please. If you are the sort of diner who finds every claim of "excellent choice!" to be somewhat suspect, be forewarned.
The menu reflects the restaurant’s uncertain direction, blending Asian-style dumplings and veggie stir-fries with salads and pasta, and of course, the ubiquitous taco. There were some impressive dishes: the Asian-style shiitake dumplings were surprisingly sumptuous, and may have you scouring your plate for stray bits of mushroom. The "Sissy Salad" managed to outshine the main dish it was paired with; its sassy blend of apples, avocado, jalapeno, and pecans are tossed with a zesty garlic vinaigrette that may just please your palette.
Other selections fared less well. The fried green beans were a curiosity; the natural flavor of the bean mostly lost beneath the fry batter, the fresh peach salsa saving the appetizer from proving utterly forgettable. The orange pork tacos, oddly, offered little detectable orange flavor. The pork shoulder was tender, but the flavor was mellow, and the queso fresco and mild red salsa failed to generate any taco synergy. The breaded pork medallions, served atop a generous portion of pesto pasta made for a hearty combination, but ultimately tastes strange and uninspired, as if two individually lackluster dishes were randomly smashed together.
In spite of its missteps, Somnio's is a place worthy of further investigation. While the quality of the food is scattershot, there are hints of genuine creativity and love in the rather affordable menu, and the promise of evolving seasonal choices will provide ample reason to return. The fact that it is currently a BYOB establishment only increases its appeal in these early, uncertain days. Spiritually, Somnio’s is on the right track, but without a more coherent culinary vision, “South Austin Cuisine” might never signify anything greater than a mere taco.
