Sagra (Italian)
Location: 1610 San Antonio [map]
Phone: (512) 535-3464
Cost: Apps ($6-$12), Pasta and Entrees ($9-$24 and market), Pizzas ($9-$12), Sides ($6), Salads ($7-$9)
Atmosphere: Upscale but not uppity, the atmosphere at Sagra is understated and subtle - a classic modern Italian restaurant atmosphere, hold the stereotype.
Food: The problem with some Italian food is that after you eat it, you're hungry again in three or four days. This can be especially true if you're loading up at Romano's Macaroni Grill, Buca di Beppo, or (shudder to think) The Olive Garden. We're crossing our fingers that the new Sagra restaurant in the former home of MARS Restaurant on San Antonio is an indication of a good new option in the old bank-breaking-Vespaio-vs-belt-busting-Olive Garden conundrum.

Photo by MR+G on Flickr

The crew at this new restaurant is still getting their bearings and working out the details. We stopped by last week to check out their soft opening (which is admittedly never a great time to gauge service under pressure) and were encouraged about things-to-come. The new wait staff was enthusiastic and ramping up their menu knowledge. The tiny bar was already doing a brisk appetizer and drink service.

We were presented with a cold, sweet white bean puree alongside a spongy focaccia that (while soft) complemented the bean puree. For a starter, we ordered a cheese platter that featured a deluge of cow's milk cheeses and an assortment of crisp and diverse crackers, but the real news was the accompaniments - a sweet and hot mustard chianti, uniquely sweet black olives, and candy-like apricots in syrup.

Next, a small delicate and rustic pizza with a sweet and thick sauce, topped with delicious, unfussy meatballs offered an almost boutique departure from the ubiquitous big round greasy pie (which we ain't knockin'.) We continued with penne pasta topped with a not-too-spicy arrabiata and an intriguing addition of capers. A side plate of bitter broccoli rabe with sweet raisins, roasted garlic and a splash of lemon proved a dimensional and fresh addition.

We've seen new eateries crash and burn after initial buzz (see: our ultimately passing infatuation with El Gringo) and only time can tell if any new restaurant is a good fit. In this case, if the service is consistently good and the food remains to be executed at the level we experienced, Sagra's chances are good.