September 26, 2007
Austin Bites: Primizie Osteria and The Counter Cafe


Primizie Osteria (Italian)
Location: 1000 E. 11th St., Ste. 150 [map]
Phone: (512) 472-9299
Cost: Entrees $9-11
Atmosphere: Casually urban decor, concrete floors, wine bar. Counter ordering.
Food: The new Primizie Osteria serves simple but elegant Italian at good prices in a comfortable, casual setting in semi-gentrified East Austin. Eastside denizens are lucky to have such a place close by for a spur of the moment relaxed dinner or a to-go run for a hearty dinner in. The dishes at Primizie are good without trying too hard. This is simple, hearty fare made with top-notch ingredients. We had the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese (fresh wide-noodle pasta with a rich mushroom and sausage ragù) which was savory and delicious with the sage in the sausage really coming through. The dish was a little on the greasy side (perhaps the chef didn't drain much of the fat rendered out of the sausage) and it could have used a bit more pamigiano, but overall it was a very good dish. We also tried the Ravioli di Caprino con Burro di Oliva (goat cheese envelopes with black olive butter and pecorino romano), which was satisfyingly earthy and rich. The bread that Primizie serves along with most items is a yummy herbed flat bread, good for sopping up the delicious sauces. Primizie has a well stocked bar with some great wine and cocktail specials and Live Oak and Real Ale on tap. The service is a bit over-the-top (no less than four different people asked how everything was - some before we'd had a chance to try our dishes), but you can tell that the people invested in this new venture really want it to succeed, so we forgive some of the over-attentiveness and age and barrette-related compliments. Primizie also needs to solve their sound and temperature problems - with two large parties in attendance during our dinner, it was nearly impossible to carry on a conversation, and the temperature in the otherwise comfortable dining room was just short of boiling. Once Primizie gets some of the details straightened out, it will be a great place for neighbors and downtown folks to pick up some good Italian at reasonable prices, or just stop by for some antipasti and a couple apéritifs. Recommended.
The Counter Cafe (Upscale Diner Grub)
Location: 626 N. Lamar Blvd. [map]
Phone: (512) 708-8800
Cost: Breakfast $4-10, Lunch $6-12
Atmosphere: Located in the old G/M Steakhouse location. Tiny, postage-stamp sized dining area where counter customers can watch the biscuit-y action.
Food: The Counter Cafe has been open three months on the site of the old G/M Steakhouse. They renovated the diner, but the counter itself is still mere feet from the cooktops, which makes for a fun breakfast or lunch entertainment option, especially because the male cooks are yummy in their own right. The food is good, honest but slightly upscale diner food. We had the Counter Benedict (thick grilled pastrami makes this a twist on the breakfast classic) and the Grilled Pimiento Cheese Sandwich. Neither disappointed. The eggs were poached perfectly and the homemade biscuits were to die for. The pimiento cheese was tangy and satisfyingly cheesey on good, dense bread. The fries and breakfast potatoes are house cut passed the test. What really puts The Counter Cafe into the roster of places we'll try again is the early morning weekend vibe of the place. On our visit the place was bustling with customers in just-better-than-pajama attire with kids, young couples, and groups of friends. The door was open and the September breeze was wafting through. The cute line cooks were doing their thing as we all sipped our coffees and read our papers. It's a perfect Fall-ish location for one of those "its great to live here" moments, and that's what cafe-type restaurants should be all about. Recommended.
Photo by Shannon Kreiger on Flickr.



Semi-gentrified?
For real?
You're serious?
Little white girl needs to take a time machine to five years ago and then come back and tell me that shit's not full on capital G Gentrfied.
Gentrifried.
Are you agreeing with poster #1 or just being pedantic and correcting the spelling of the last word?
Neither.
although i thoroughly enjoyed my Counter Benedict too, the service was awful. we won't return for that reason. the owner rushed us out from our after b-fast coffee to make way for the 1 person that was waiting (there were quite a few of us there). so sad, such a great place...except for that pesky little thing called customer service, which stank.
Is gentrifrication what happens when you tear down a Church's to put up a... whatever it is that's upscale and serves fried chicken, Sam?
He was being funny with the GentrifRied.
I could really go for a big GentriFried Steak right now.
I'm just psyched someone called me little. Squueee!