Adios El Gringo, Ciao Stortini!

Did you hear that story in the New England Journal of Medicine this week that talked about how our own weight is significantly influenced by the weight of our closest friends? Well, our friends better watch out because we're likely to plump up in a hurry now that Stortini has come to town.

Stortini is the newest restaurant in the El Chile family of eateries and it’s in the space on Manor Road where El Gringo used to be. But before you start cursing and pounding your fists with rage over the absence of El Gringo, take heart because the coolest part of El Gringo – the Red House Lounge – is still there, and it continues to offer a limited selection of El Gringo food items on its menu. So get a grip, would ya?

Believe us when we tell you that Stortini is a welcome addition to the east Austin restaurant scene, which has focused on Mexican food to the exclusion of just about everything else for far too long. Although it has only been open for less than three weeks, we have managed to stuff ourselves silly at Stortini twice already, and we were quite pleased with both experiences.

The star of the Stortini menu is definitely the pasta, which is the real homemade deal - no Creamette served here. In each pasta dish we tried, the delectable variously shaped noodles were cooked perfectly al dente and packed with the subtle flavor that only homemade pasta can deliver. The menu includes a wide variety of pasta dishes in addition to a nice range of appetizers, soups, salads, panini on housemade bread, desserts, and a modest wine list.

Stortini’s atmosphere is trendy casual – with red wallpaper and crystal chandeliers throughout the main dining room. It’s a great place to go on a date, or a good choice for dinner with friends or co-workers. Certainly no need to dress up, and most people won’t be, although you wouldn’t feel foolish if you did (at least not for that). There is also outdoor seating available on a little patio that was very pleasant. We didn’t see any kids during our visits, but we guess they’d probably be okay. As long as they aren’t sitting near us and crying. The main draw of Stortini, however, is the big portions of delicious food for small prices. We were told their menu will be changing soon to feature even more offerings including homemade ravioli (which we can’t wait to try.)

A brief review of the dishes we’ve sampled there so far:

Spicy Housemade Sausage (appetizer) – a delicious mix of sausage and fig preserves served atop a polenta patty that was crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. We wouldn’t have thought to put this creative combination of ingredients together, but they melded perfectly in a fantastic mix of salty, spicy and sweet with a pleasing variety of textures in each bite. ($7)

Balsamic Beets (billed as an appetizer but makes a good salad course) - a beautiful dish of cubed roasted beets tossed in balsamic vinegar and sprinkled with feta cheese and parsley. Simplicity at its tastiest. ($4)

Calamari (appetizer) - lightly fried in a polenta batter and served with a chili aioli. We didn’t try the aioli but loved these crispy crunchy circles o’ squid with just a squeeze of lemon juice. ($8)

Rigatoni and Meatballs – rigatoni with a Bolognese sauce, parmesan meatballs and mozzarella. Our only complaint about this hearty dish was that it seemed a bit salty. Our fellow diner, who gobbled up the leftovers, however, disagreed and thought it was mighty fine. ($11)

Rigatoni and Coniglio – This dish is the bomb. Imagine a large bowl of homemade pasta tubes topped with a generous portion of braised rabbit and served in a creamy mustard sauce with spinach and basil. Actually, stop imagining it and just order it – you can thank us later. ($12)

Pappardelle and Marsala Mushrooms – Five different kind of mushrooms – need we say more? Topped with a surprisingly light marsala and garlic cream sauce. Oh yeah, and we think there were also some homemade pasta ribbons somewhere underneath all those divine mushrooms. ($11)

Spaghetti Pescatore – psssghetti served with mussels, shrimp, and calamari in a seriously tomatoey arrabiata sauce that demands to be sopped up with bread once you’ve cleaned your plate of everything else. And you will clean your plate. ($14)

Torta al Limon with Coconut Sorbetto – this delicious slice of lemon tart had us glad we ordered dessert even though we were totally stuffed from our meal. It was tart with a delicious dense crust and a scoop of not-too-sweet coconut sorbetto that provided a perfect complement to the citrus tart. Worth saving room for. Or, if you forget to do that, just do what we did and order it anyway! ($6)

We couldn’t find a website for Stortini, but they're at 1917 Manor Road and you can call them at 391-9500. We're pretty sure they're only serving dinner. Mama mia! (We just felt like saying that).

*photo courtesy of gluemoon

Contact the author of this article or email tips@austinist.com with further questions, comments or tips.

By austinist_ami in Food on July 26, 2007 9:57 PM 0 Comments

Comments [rss]

guest

So 3 friends and I went by Stortini tonight, and unanimously agreed: it sucks.

No one was pleased with the food. The recommended beet appetizer tasted like canned beets put into a bowl. The Rigatoni with Rabbit (Rabbitoni?) was decent, but overly salty. The Blueberry Crostada(?) was bland. The caeser salad seemed to be covered in a dressing of lemons and anchovies, and was also salty. The one shining star was the Crustini appetizer, which was good.

As for the atmosphere, rather dark. Maybe a few more sconces in strategic points to help make the menus readable. The tables felt, and looked, like junior high cafeteria table tops cut to fit restaurant legs. Perhaps it was just where we were seated inside, but the volume we had to use to be heard across the table seemed excessive. The pair next to us was in kissing distance just so they could hear each other.

The service was good in general, and almost overly attentive on the drink side of the house. I think we got water refilled after two sips were taken from anyone's glass.

They did mention this was a 'soft' opening and they were still working out the kinks before the grand opening in September. If I hear a lot of positive reviews from people, I might consider trying again, but I can't recommend the place right now.

guest

I am an austinite not an austinist; What does an austinite mean? well first of all I was born and raised here, second I have been to, experienced, and miss the places that define the city of austin as we know it today, third I have experienced other cultures and food to appreciate 'real food'(i.e. culinary degree, food science degree, etc...). So what does this make me?... A cultured person who knows their environment and can appreciate what is good or bad. As for El Gringo..... It is no longer around, need I say more. For the new, and soon to become many eateries to replace this restaurant's shell, I tell you this.... it is not great enough to be cherished, nor good enough to be remembered, ...... it is only bad enough to be forgotten.

guest

i am glad there's now a restaurant offering something other than tex-mex/"southwestern" fare (you're guilty of this, too, eastside cafe, with your enchilada-y offerings). but what is up with that unmemorable name, "stortini" sounds like the name of a bar cart at ikea.

Derek Wohlfahrt

seriously, what is up with all the hate on spoon?!?! if you don't like spoon, i hate you and we will never be friends. that is all.

guest

I just ate at Stortini and I have to say it was quite marginal. The white bean and sausage soup was tasty but the rest of the menu was boring and bland. I had a panini and the bread was soggy and way too toasted. I'm not a stickler for food but this stuff was bad, stay away.

guest

GBTS

That wouldn't stand for "Go Buy The Spoon" now would it?

Ursel

can't we all just agree that Spoon sucks......great...now GBTS

antneon

Hi. I'm the first commenter. I want to apologize to Austinist Ami for being so incredibly harsh.

Ami, if you're really not the person who wrote those over-the-top El Gringo posts then please understand that I am sorry. Your review of this Italian place is well written and doesn't read like an advertisement. (I just re-read it and ignored the positive El Gringo bits). El Gringo has been pushed on this website so much and when I saw a great review of the place that replaced it I jumped to conclusions.

If there's a way for me to delete my original comment I will. Just let me know.

Sorry about the trouble.

guest

Nerds.

guest

Hi, it's me, #7 again. Thanks for making your fine points, #11. (Hey 7-11!) Fer the record, I don't want anyone to join my or any specific lifestyle. I like that some of my favorite places are often uncrowded.

But I do think you inferred a lot more than I was trying to say. And, believe it or not, I put a pretty high value on free speech, regardless of message. Your only oversight was when you said your preferred #1's rant. In actuality, it is the only true 'rant' in this stream. And, as rants go, it's pretty poor. Especially the part where s/he told Ami to stop posting, when, a.) that's just mean, and b.)...duuuh, you yourself wrote:

"Part of the fun of living in Austin is being able to loudly speak your mind."

I agree, and that includes Ami, whoever she is, even when #1 disagrees with her epicurean beliefs.

(And I'm not a Neo-anything. All these dismal eateries are literally around the corner from me)

guest

I care that you don't care.

the sweetish chef

i don't care.

guest

I care that everyone cares. Can't everyone just not care?

guest

#28

I don't care to answer that question.

guest

#27

Why do you care?

guest

Who gives a fuck about what you like and what you don't like? And you shouldn't care about what other people like or don't like. This city used to be a place where no one cared about anything and everyone was cool with that. What happenend?

guest

El Chile stole my new 10 speed that my grandma gave me for my birthday and now they won't give it back. Spoon rocks. THAT is all. URYSVEJJDGVA

Elizabeth S.

#22 - That Dairy Queen makes excellent Blizzards. Plus, I do believe that "Friday Night Lights" uses it as a filming location.

Ursel

El Chile has great fish taco and wonderful mole enchiladas. Spoon sucks. That is all. GBTW

the sweetish chef

three words for all you people:

TASTE

BUDS

VARY

ConanTheLibrarian

1) Don't take it personally Ami. Remember this week's rerun of "South Park" with "he who has no life" as the arch-enemy.

2)#13 & #15 are in the know. Hoover's is damn fine food, despite their jerk chicken being a tad on the mild side. Eastside Cafe has been provided great food and great service before most of the commentators were gleams in their father's eys. A quick Google search of "Resturants on Manor Road Austin" turns up VIVO Cocina Mexicana, Mi Madre's, Alayna's Taqueria, John Muller Bar B Que, and for those not afraid ("I see Black and Brown people!") to venture too far out of Hipsville, into real East Austin, a Dairy Queen.

austinistami

i'm not connected to el gringo, i AM el gringo! no, not really. for what it's worth, i don't know anyone who owns, works at, or is otherwise a part of any of the restaurants on manor road. i have never written about el gringo and i only ate there once. and i thought it was just okay.

guest

I care what you think 17.

guest

i'm not sure you can really take a food reviewer seriously whose photo is posted for all to see. There's a reason dale rice doesn't have an actual photo of himself on the statesman.

guest

With all the social incest in this town, hard to trust the reviews of most any Austin publication.

Reviewers can and should express their opinions, but in the interest of full disclosure, it would given them much more weight to know whether they have any connection direct or otherwise to what they are reviewing.

guest

i think those most displeased with the posts are also most aware that this place doesn't provide journalism. hopefully, others realize that when they come here. i think, after reading some of the comments read about the mohawk show, that it isn't so much that the focus is on 3 venues, 3 djs, 3 restaurants (although there may be a level of buddy-buddy there), as they may just not be aware of what's good/out there.

of course, there is some level of value to the weekly ist or these posts, otherwise i wouldn't come here to see what's up. however, if this place is run by people who are into events that recommend the same stuff, populated by the same sheepish crowd, i think that says more about limited exposure to what's out there...and in my snooty view, having good taste. it's the blind leading the (struggling) hip.

but who cares what i think...

guest

#13, just don't eat at those restaurants. I know I don't. I haven't been to el Chilitgrintogo since it was the Manor Rd. Coffee House and it hasn't killed me to not go there. Just eat at Eastside Cafe and Hoovers and support the local businesses you enjoy. The other ones, if they're bad enough and it sounds like they are, will all fall down eventually.

Elizabeth S.

#13 - http://austinist.com/2006/02/08/we_heart_hoovers.php It's from 2006, but still.

guest

#7 The "friend hookup" may be a great deal but I don't think anyone wants to read reviews that have been tainted by a self-congratulatory circle jerk.

Also, whether you like it or not, Austinist.com cannot be considered modest anymore, which isn't a bad thing considering the scope of categories it tackles.

guest

el gringo was average, some of their dishes were out right awful, and the portions were so small and overpriced. the last thing manor needs is another overpriced restuarant with average food and high prices. i wish the el chile people didnt have such a monopoly on that street, manor could use another good eatery that isnt expensive and "hip". its a shame this site doesnt promote quality restuarants with good food and good portions like hoovers, instead of sticking to the places where the most skinny jeans are found

guest

Here, here #9! I agree that without real criticism of our art and our food that we’ll fail to raise the bar and to become a truly exceptional or innovative city.

guest

Hi Seventh Commenter!

I liked the rant of first commenter. It was so much more passionate and therefore interesting than your defensive view of the Holiest of Holys AUSTIN LIFESTYLE.

Part of the fun of living in Austin is being able to loudly speak your mind, no matter how lunitic or off your experiences may be to others. Just like part of the frustration of living in Austin is listening to old people bitch about how much better things were way back when, disagreeing with those who think everyone else is living their experience and having to deal with people that think just because they got here first, they KNOW more than anyone else.

guest

HEY NEO_AUSTINITES:

Have fun eating shitty food at any or all of these trend-of-the-moment restaurants. The real Austinites know where it's truly at.

guest

austinist_ami is not phantom_critic.

The friend hookup thing is pretty true. I'm not so sure its such a good thing (especially when it comes to reviews). If you come from a more metropolitan place where standards are often higher, experiencing the buzz about austin can be a let down. There's a lot of good, but a lot of halfassed things that could be better...that goes for everything from financial support for the arts to music to food establishments...

and for the record, ive never been really impressed with el chile's food or el gringo. i like el chilito, but i don't expect much from a $1.75 taco.

guest

But yeah, maybe you could show of picture of pasta less than 9 hours old if you want people to be gastro-disposed before they read the review. Or whatev.

guest

Hi first commenter. I think you might be taking this all a little too seriously. Besides, the Austinist's official sponsor is obviously the Mohawk.

Most of the 'ist is non-serious. It's okay. I also thought El Gringo was TERRIBLE, truly the worst of the three or four Manor Road dellionaire misadventures. Obviously, I think they're all bad, with El Chile being by far the least unpalatable and only occasionally fun, if you luck out and get one of the better servers. But I can feel this way and still like Ami's reviews, and not get all hostile. It's not like she gave you bad investment advice.

If anyone's sucking the fun out of what is just a light review, it's you. And furthermore, if you're not familiar with the city of Austin, let me explain: the institution of the semi-nepotist 'friend hookup'-- ranging from a free beer at a bar where your friend works, to being let into a show without having to pay cover, to a friendly review on a modest news blog-- is a small but not negligible engine within the service economy, and one reason the Austin lifestyle can be so sweet, allowing service industry and the like to occasionally live slightly beyond their means.

guest

I agree that the calamari is lovely. But the pasta? Fair to middling. However, I didn't have any of the above dishes, so I'll try one out next time. The most startling thing about the meal was the caesar salad--the croutons were massive, incredibly hard, and damn near broke one of my teeth.

guest

I guess El Gringo was so good it had to close. I'm not sure what the fascination is/was with their eateries, seems to me more to do with the trendy HDB scene than it does actual food.

guest

Am I the only one who thinks the dried up pasta photo is incredibly unappetizing?

guest

Wow. It's like it was some sort of review where she shared her opinion and experiences in detail. If I had a nickel for every time a food reviewer had a differing opinion than my own I'd be a rich person.

guest

I've got conflicting feelings about Stortini. While the food was alright, it wasn't better than El Gringo. We loved El Gringo solely for its food, as many of you know the service was abhorrent. It actually got to the point where we anticipated being treated as if we were imposing on some back stage party. Stortini (good luck remembering that) presented essentially the same problem. The servers were a bit more attentive but unfriendly and uninterested. The menu was non descriptive and done in minuscule font. Yes the food was pretty good, but honestly, couldn't they have just fired the mangers with the staff (explains the reoccurring poor treatment) and re-vamped the team? Oh, and the decor was v. subdued Liberace; much more ridiculous than before, but without the cheeky aspect.

antneon

HOW CAN THIS BE TRUSTED?!?!?! Austinist pushed El Gringo in at least 2 separate articles when El Gringo was one of the WORST restaurants in town. Now this restaurant takes the place of El Gringo, and the whole article reads like a huge advertisement. You describe every dish in detail and end with a line that you don't know when it's open? I hope you don't think your readers are that stupid. We can tell that "Austinist Ami" is the same "Phantom Critic" who wrote about this restaurant with is was the disaster called "El Gringo." Please, whomever you are, stop posting on Austinst. You're ruining the credibility and fun of Austinist. I'm happy you have friends that run this restaurant (or maybe you're the one who runs it!), but I like to think that website isn't a free advertisement space for friend's business.